Africa Revisited. Returning to Beautiful Botswana & Victoria Falls

We were quite sad to be leaving The Kruger after three lovely nights and loads of game spotting. Out through the Pafura Gate and ever onwards to our last South African destination, before entering Botswana. Tshipse Forever Resort in the Limpopo Province. "Tshipse" means "something warm" and due to circumstances beyond our control we stayed longer than we were expecting. The route to Tshipse was very picturesque and the site nestled under the koppie tower amongst the trees. Three fabulous swimming pools two of them from the naturally hot springs.

One of the beautifully warm pools. We actually went swimming while we were there. Very odd experience swimming in this warm naturally heated pool, when the temperature outside was in the high 30's. It should have been unbearable, but was infact very refreshing. The natural hot mineral spring water comes out of the ground at 65 C and is cooled down for swimming. There is also a Spa on site. The site is very popular in the summer and there were some day visitors when we arrived on the Sunday but by Monday morning, we were almost on our own. Nice restaurant serving a buffet or A La Carte Menu and a comfortable bar. Lots of monkeys on site which could be naughty but never caused us any problems.

This was one of the cuter ones!

The koppie towered over the campsite. There was a cross on the top of the hill, not quite sure how it got there.

Early next morning we set off for the next site across the border into Botswana. Unfortunately, we ended back at Tshipse that same evening. The never ending saga of the wipers continued. We pressed on to Mussina 39k away, to get them fixed yet again and spent the whole day there in the Toyota Dealers showroom.Only, 40 C + at this point. We were glad the showroom had air con. Numerous phone calls later to Bobo and after a long, long day in the showroom, we were heading back again to Tshipse, too late for our next campsite. We put the tent up, had another meal in the restaurant, a few drinks in the bar and sat by the fire, before climbing into our nest for a good nights sleep.. At least the wiper motor had been fixed........we thought! Never mind, tomorrow we were off to Botswana and our first independent border crossing, should be interesting.

Another day, another journey! Excited and anticipating a long day, we set off early. It was a long drive as we went on a massive detour. We had met some campers at Tshipse  who had warned us not to use the advised route to the border at Martin's Drift ( otherwise known as Grobblers Brug) as the roads were very poor. It had taken them over 4 hours to cover a less than 2 hour journey and they had to finish the drive on dirt roads in the dark. Not to be recommended. We decided on the safest option and went on a massive though interesting detour through Polkawane, experiencing a 4 lane highway through a very busy town. Madam SatNag performed well! Much longer, but tar all the way and some great scenery. We eventually arrived at the border and organised chaos ensued.

 We were OK for fuel but needed some Botswana Pula. We did try to buy some in Mussina but it all proved too difficult! There was a "Bureau du Change" at the border, well a shed and sign! With some apprehension, Den went off to get some Rand changed to Pula. As it turned out it was relatively easy and he got a good rate. Appearances can be deceptive, the shed was equipped with a computer, a security guard and a young lady who knew exactly what she was doing. Mission accomplished. Next, immigration, we queued for an hour or so with all our paperwork and before long, after parting with 160 of our Pula, we were through South Africa and out into Botswana. The drive through the border post was quite entertaining dodging all the enormous lorries as you have to drive across The Limpopo River on Groblersbrug ( Grobler's Bridge) to Martin's Drift, which is the Botswana side. The officials looked a bit scary with their guns but were actually quite friendly.

A short dash cam of the border crossing.

The next site Kwa Nokeng Lodge was literally at the border, so we were soon settled in on a half empty ( except for the donkeys) campsite.

Note the donkeys grazing around our bakkie.

Tent up, we made our way to the bar. Lovely spot overlooking the valley. We had a great meal out on the decking by the river bed. New adventures tomorrow, we had made it to Botswana.

Reception at Kwa Nokeng. A nice little campsite although there is a bit of road noise from the nearby border control.

The swimming pool. Too tired to try this one out.

Shaded by the huge Nyala Berry Tree, we sipped a sun downer. The decking overlooked the Limpopo River, shame there was so little water in it, so no animals about. Still waiting for the first big summer rains.

The viewing point at Kwa Nokeng Lodge.

Next day we were off to Nata Lodge just the other side of Francistown. We were really pleased we had opted for a 4 wheel drive as part of the campsite at Nata could only be used by 4 X 4, as it was so sandy. 

The drive to Nata was pretty uneventful although the roads were not as good as the ones in South Africa. We pitched under the mokopane trees and enjoyed the shade. I think Nata had to be one of my favourites. Very relaxing and a lovely pool and restaurant. I think we could have easily spent another day here.

One of the lodges at Nata. A combination of wooden lodges and safari tents, with every luxury of course.

The pool and bar were very relaxing places to be with lots of lounging places. 

We made the most of the facilities and also had a very nice meal in the restaurant.

Camping at Nata Lodge. Good clean tidy ablutions and excellent security. 

Dash cam of our drive the border to Nata Lodge and a day visit to Victoria Falls. 11 minutes.

Day 14 found us on a rather long and boring drive from Nata to the next camp just outside Kasane in the Chobe National Park, no animals spotted en route. Had we really been in Africa for two weeks? We were off to a site called Senyati. We had heard good things about this place from our friends Nic and Cara, who we had met at Monateng, they had spent their honeymoon here. Firstly, we had to find a few more Pula! We had set out for Senyati but then decided we would go to Kasane first, to change money, find fuel and do a bit of shopping. 

Kasane was bustling, a real frontier type place. Courtesy of Madam SatNag we quickly found a bank and had soon topped up our supply of Pula. We also filled up with fuel as Botswana is really cheap for diesel. We tracked down the local Choppies and stocked up on food and wine as we knew that Senyati did not have a restaurant so it would be back to the braai! We were soon back on the road and heading back towards Senyati on the north side of Kasane.

We found the campsite easily and were so pleased we had a 4 x 4 or it would have meant a massive detour! The camp road was deep soft sand. We had fun getting to the campsite but we made it easily.

We were pleased to discover we had our own bathroom and kitchen at Senyati. Basic but functional! A great swimming pool on site and we needed it as it was a really hot day.

The hot water was heated by a donkey which was powered by wood. Workers came around in the morning and lit the donkey.  Den had to try and get it going himself.

Yes, Den has been fully trained on braai duties and can now actually cook! He is also getting a bit obsessional about wood, type, size and burning qualities. The back of the bakkie is full of splinters from wood he has insisted we need to carry. I suppose I ought to be grateful he's not actually chopping it down as well.

We bought an enormous piece of filet steak from the camp shop which I attacked with a bread knife.It felt like half a cow. Tasted really good though!

Great bar overlooking the water hole, which was lit at night. We saw some fabulous game. The elephants were a delight to watch. There was a hide where you could climb down and get up close to the animals. Den tried it out.

While we were at Senyati we had arranged a day trip to Victoria Falls. We were hoping to see more water this time as the last time we went it was very dry. The trip to Zimbabwe is an experience not to be missed. A mad drive down the sandy track in an open bus followed by around an hour in the coach to the border. Another hour to get through the border if your lucky and another queue for the visa! $55 each to enter Zimbabwe for a day trip ( you do get a very posh visa stamp in your passport.) For international visitors, $30 each to enter Vic Falls and more queuing. You always feel you have been ripped off as an international visitor as you have to entrance fees depending on where you come from. I wonder if things will change?

The craft stores at the entrance to Vic Falls. There is usually a troop of dancers who burst into traditional song and dance as you get down out of the coach.

The traditional view of The Victoria Falls, the noise is tremendous and it does take your breathe away when you first see them.

The spray was actually quite refreshing in the heat.

There was a lot more water this time and we had a good wander about and then lunch in The Rainfall Cafe. We hoped our dollars did something to help the locals who were very friendly. Back to Senyati for our last night in Botswana, then off to Namibia tomorrow and the next adventure. I have a feeling we will be back to Botswana, definitely unfinished business there and lots more to see.


Bye bye Botswana, 'till next time.

Africa Revisited. South Africa. Sabie to The Kruger

A video ( about 20 minutes of our route from Monateng to Merry Pebbles Campsite.

Travelled from Monateng Camping in Pretoria to Merry Pebbles near Sabie, just outside The Kruger. Such a beautiful drive with absolutely stunning views, such amazing scenery! We loved the trip though the Long Tom Pass and we actually managed to find Long Tom a very large silver canon. Long Tom was the British name for this Boer operated field artillery gun that fired 38 kg shells, with a reach of 10 km.It caused the British generals and their soldiers a lot of grief. Shame about the tacky craft stalls at the entrance.

Travelling through the Pass, the scenery became almost overwhelming. We went through clouds, fires and over some very challenging roads. It was fun following the maps as the town names had changed, Lydenburg had become Mashishing, a bit confusing as both names appeared to be interchangeable

Very difficult here to choose the right pictures, as with every turn of the road there was a new picture waiting. These we taken with Den's new super duper Canon lens.

We did not allow the lack of windscreen wipers to deter us, although we did stop just outside Pretoria to have them fixed. Thank goodness for Tracks4Africa who with the help of Madam Sat Nag, found the Toyota Dealer. New fuse safely installed and we made for the next campsite. The Toyota dealer commented that the Toyota Hilux had a known wiper problem and that it looked as if the fuse had been changed a number of times before. Those words would come back to haunt us.

Merry Pebbles was a great site. We met up with a second group of happy Bobo campers. A twenty strong German group with two Bobo mechanics in tow. We made ourselves known. Just as well, because we would have further dealings with the mechanics. A beautiful meal at Merry Pebbles in a lovely restaurant.

Very spacious site with a lovely swimming pool. We didn't actually try the water but it looked clean and cool. We tried our kettle, a hot tip from Nic and Cara, it worked so well! Ignoring the Elf & Safety brigade ( we are not operating at EU standards here) , we were VERY careful. This had to the hot tip of the holiday and saved us so much time and gas. Just as well, as the gas bottle we had been given and which had to be returned full, was half empty! We did have to go back once, as a certain person left it sitting on it's perch.
NB: We would not do this at home or anywhere near children playing, we usually used a short extension lead on the ground.

This made us smile, a very long morning briefing for the German party, it looked very intense. Morning meeting over we all made our way to the next stop. Not in a convoy but we couldn't actually avoid taking the same roads.

I wonder what the collective noun for a clutch of Bobo Campers Is?  Bobo ettes, Boboeeze?

 Ever on wards, we were travelling through the Blyde River Canyon to the Forever resort at Blydepoort.

We passed through the Blyde Canyon, the second largest canyon in Africa, past waterfalls and a view through "God's Window". We went a little off piste and found some other less touristy waterfalls down a dirt track.

We also passed the "Three Rondavels", huge cliff rocks reminiscent of the local people's houses or rondavels, hence the name.

 We stopped at Bourke's Luck Potholes and spent a happy hour scrambling about the rocks, very touristy and busy as all the coaches stop there but worth a visit.

A view downwards towards the potholes. It was really hot so we were quite pleased to be down in a bit of shade by the water.

Next stop The Kruger, we were really looking forward to a visit and we would be staying three nights at different camps so we hoped to spot some game, we would not be disappointed. We stayed at Satara Rest Camp, Letaba Rest Camp and Shingwedzi Rest Camp. All of them slightly different but the facilities were quite good. The best game sightings were further south. We went in at Orphen Gate which was fine but on reflection it would have been better to enter the park further South via Hazyview. Next time we visit we will try and go for 5 nights to enable some early morning and late evening drives. As it was we were not disappointed. A highlight of the visit had to be the snoring lions, they were sleeping off a night's kill in a dry riverbed with a lioness standing guard. The snores could be heard right across the valley. 
A small selection of some off the animals we spotted. Sadly no rhino or leopards!

Our very first sighting within 10 minutes of arriving at Kruger.

Water buffalo, one of the big five.

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Parked up at Satara. It was actually quite busy here, but we managed to find some electric.

Sad, but a fact of life in the wild. Vultures picking on the bones of a dead elephant. The smell was horrific. We hoped the elly died from natural causes!

Funny little Southern Ground Hornbill. 

I think these are one of my favourites zebbies.

Greater Kudu, these are everywhere and in beautiful condition.

Spotted hyena, he was just resting at the side of the road, in the shade of a tree during the day. He posed beautifully.

 Where there is one giraffe there is always another hiding in the bushes often in family groups.

Blue wilderbeests, these seem to get on well with the zebbies, we often saw them together. At one point we saw hundreds in the distance we presumed looking for water.

A lone bull, we were lucky enough to also see many family groups.

The lioness on guard. She was so well camouflaged it took us a while to spot her.

The snoring echoed around the river bed and was really loud. Lazy lions. We think there were around six lions in this pride we only actually saw four.

African Buffalo pretty prolific in these parts.

Further North in The Kruger, long roads but pretty empty.

From a viewpoint on a bridge we spotted this Ellie queue.

Basking in the sun under the bridge an African Rock Python, cleverly spotted by Den!

A Leopard Tortoise crossing the road. Lucky he wasn't squashed, we saw some that were.

Impala enjoying a morning sniff. These are a beautiful colour and blend so well into their environment.

Not only animals in The Kruger this baobab tree was massive.

We loved The Kruger, away from the main roads, the park was actually pretty quiet and we found some brilliant lookout points. The 4 x 4 came into its own here, especially on some of the very remote back roads. 

On our own by a lookout, it was so quiet and peaceful.

The campsites were dusty and further south a bit crowded but we were out driving most of the time. We ate at two of the camps, one of the restaurants was a bush camp, we tried the pap and sauce......not our favourite, but the wine was nice and the atmosphere was friendly.

 A slight rerun of the wiper saga on day 2, as guess what? It started to rain, albeit briefly and the windscreen wipers packed up again! We arranged to meet our friendly Bobo mechanic back at Satara, only a three hour drive there and back, he changed another fuse and fiddled with a relay, off we went. Problem solved...well no. More to follow. 

A  short dashcam ( 20 mins)  of our drive from Sabie through the Kruger to Tshipse. 

Looking forward to the next visit.
One more stop in South Africa and then on to Botswana.