Thursday 21 December 2017

Africa Revisited. Returning to Beautiful Botswana & Victoria Falls

We were quite sad to be leaving The Kruger after three lovely nights and loads of game spotting. Out through the Pafura Gate and ever onwards to our last South African destination, before entering Botswana. Tshipse Forever Resort in the Limpopo Province. "Tshipse" means "something warm" and due to circumstances beyond our control we stayed longer than we were expecting. The route to Tshipse was very picturesque and the site nestled under the koppie tower amongst the trees. Three fabulous swimming pools two of them from the naturally hot springs.



One of the beautifully warm pools. We actually went swimming while we were there. Very odd experience swimming in this warm naturally heated pool, when the temperature outside was in the high 30's. It should have been unbearable, but was infact very refreshing. The natural hot mineral spring water comes out of the ground at 65 C and is cooled down for swimming. There is also a Spa on site. The site is very popular in the summer and there were some day visitors when we arrived on the Sunday but by Monday morning, we were almost on our own. Nice restaurant serving a buffet or A La Carte Menu and a comfortable bar. Lots of monkeys on site which could be naughty but never caused us any problems.



This was one of the cuter ones!


The koppie towered over the campsite. There was a cross on the top of the hill, not quite sure how it got there.

Early next morning we set off for the next site across the border into Botswana. Unfortunately, we ended back at Tshipse that same evening. The never ending saga of the wipers continued. We pressed on to Mussina 39k away, to get them fixed yet again and spent the whole day there in the Toyota Dealers showroom.Only, 40 C + at this point. We were glad the showroom had air con. Numerous phone calls later to Bobo and after a long, long day in the showroom, we were heading back again to Tshipse, too late for our next campsite. We put the tent up, had another meal in the restaurant, a few drinks in the bar and sat by the fire, before climbing into our nest for a good nights sleep.. At least the wiper motor had been fixed........we thought! Never mind, tomorrow we were off to Botswana and our first independent border crossing, should be interesting.

Another day, another journey! Excited and anticipating a long day, we set off early. It was a long drive as we went on a massive detour. We had met some campers at Tshipse  who had warned us not to use the advised route to the border at Martin's Drift ( otherwise known as Grobblers Brug) as the roads were very poor. It had taken them over 4 hours to cover a less than 2 hour journey and they had to finish the drive on dirt roads in the dark. Not to be recommended. We decided on the safest option and went on a massive though interesting detour through Polkawane, experiencing a 4 lane highway through a very busy town. Madam SatNag performed well! Much longer, but tar all the way and some great scenery. We eventually arrived at the border and organised chaos ensued.

 We were OK for fuel but needed some Botswana Pula. We did try to buy some in Mussina but it all proved too difficult! There was a "Bureau du Change" at the border, well a shed and sign! With some apprehension, Den went off to get some Rand changed to Pula. As it turned out it was relatively easy and he got a good rate. Appearances can be deceptive, the shed was equipped with a computer, a security guard and a young lady who knew exactly what she was doing. Mission accomplished. Next, immigration, we queued for an hour or so with all our paperwork and before long, after parting with 160 of our Pula, we were through South Africa and out into Botswana. The drive through the border post was quite entertaining dodging all the enormous lorries as you have to drive across The Limpopo River on Groblersbrug ( Grobler's Bridge) to Martin's Drift, which is the Botswana side. The officials looked a bit scary with their guns but were actually quite friendly.



A short dash cam of the border crossing.

The next site Kwa Nokeng Lodge was literally at the border, so we were soon settled in on a half empty ( except for the donkeys) campsite.

Note the donkeys grazing around our bakkie.



Tent up, we made our way to the bar. Lovely spot overlooking the valley. We had a great meal out on the decking by the river bed. New adventures tomorrow, we had made it to Botswana.




Reception at Kwa Nokeng. A nice little campsite although there is a bit of road noise from the nearby border control.



The swimming pool. Too tired to try this one out.




Shaded by the huge Nyala Berry Tree, we sipped a sun downer. The decking overlooked the Limpopo River, shame there was so little water in it, so no animals about. Still waiting for the first big summer rains.



The viewing point at Kwa Nokeng Lodge.

Next day we were off to Nata Lodge just the other side of Francistown. We were really pleased we had opted for a 4 wheel drive as part of the campsite at Nata could only be used by 4 X 4, as it was so sandy. 



The drive to Nata was pretty uneventful although the roads were not as good as the ones in South Africa. We pitched under the mokopane trees and enjoyed the shade. I think Nata had to be one of my favourites. Very relaxing and a lovely pool and restaurant. I think we could have easily spent another day here.



One of the lodges at Nata. A combination of wooden lodges and safari tents, with every luxury of course.

The pool and bar were very relaxing places to be with lots of lounging places. 


We made the most of the facilities and also had a very nice meal in the restaurant.



Camping at Nata Lodge. Good clean tidy ablutions and excellent security. 


Dash cam of our drive the border to Nata Lodge and a day visit to Victoria Falls. 11 minutes.

Day 14 found us on a rather long and boring drive from Nata to the next camp just outside Kasane in the Chobe National Park, no animals spotted en route. Had we really been in Africa for two weeks? We were off to a site called Senyati. We had heard good things about this place from our friends Nic and Cara, who we had met at Monateng, they had spent their honeymoon here. Firstly, we had to find a few more Pula! We had set out for Senyati but then decided we would go to Kasane first, to change money, find fuel and do a bit of shopping. 

Kasane was bustling, a real frontier type place. Courtesy of Madam SatNag we quickly found a bank and had soon topped up our supply of Pula. We also filled up with fuel as Botswana is really cheap for diesel. We tracked down the local Choppies and stocked up on food and wine as we knew that Senyati did not have a restaurant so it would be back to the braai! We were soon back on the road and heading back towards Senyati on the north side of Kasane.

We found the campsite easily and were so pleased we had a 4 x 4 or it would have meant a massive detour! The camp road was deep soft sand. We had fun getting to the campsite but we made it easily.



We were pleased to discover we had our own bathroom and kitchen at Senyati. Basic but functional! A great swimming pool on site and we needed it as it was a really hot day.





The hot water was heated by a donkey which was powered by wood. Workers came around in the morning and lit the donkey.  Den had to try and get it going himself.






Yes, Den has been fully trained on braai duties and can now actually cook! He is also getting a bit obsessional about wood, type, size and burning qualities. The back of the bakkie is full of splinters from wood he has insisted we need to carry. I suppose I ought to be grateful he's not actually chopping it down as well.






We bought an enormous piece of filet steak from the camp shop which I attacked with a bread knife.It felt like half a cow. Tasted really good though!







Great bar overlooking the water hole, which was lit at night. We saw some fabulous game. The elephants were a delight to watch. There was a hide where you could climb down and get up close to the animals. Den tried it out.






While we were at Senyati we had arranged a day trip to Victoria Falls. We were hoping to see more water this time as the last time we went it was very dry. The trip to Zimbabwe is an experience not to be missed. A mad drive down the sandy track in an open bus followed by around an hour in the coach to the border. Another hour to get through the border if your lucky and another queue for the visa! $55 each to enter Zimbabwe for a day trip ( you do get a very posh visa stamp in your passport.) For international visitors, $30 each to enter Vic Falls and more queuing. You always feel you have been ripped off as an international visitor as you have to entrance fees depending on where you come from. I wonder if things will change?






The craft stores at the entrance to Vic Falls. There is usually a troop of dancers who burst into traditional song and dance as you get down out of the coach.



The traditional view of The Victoria Falls, the noise is tremendous and it does take your breathe away when you first see them.



The spray was actually quite refreshing in the heat.




There was a lot more water this time and we had a good wander about and then lunch in The Rainfall Cafe. We hoped our dollars did something to help the locals who were very friendly. Back to Senyati for our last night in Botswana, then off to Namibia tomorrow and the next adventure. I have a feeling we will be back to Botswana, definitely unfinished business there and lots more to see.


Bye bye Botswana, 'till next time.





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