Following our trip to South Africa 18 months ago we decided another trip was in order. We arranged to hire a 4X4 and do an overland trip through Botswana with Den's sister and brother -in -law. Never say never we thought!! Not really into "wilding" it would be a big trip for us and with Den's "special birthday" looming, we thought we would take the plunge and do it while we still were fit enough.
With the help of Fiona and Harry in South Africa the Avis bakkie was booked, no turning back then. It looked sturdy enough and Harry did a reccy to check everything out, if he was happy with the vehicle then so were we.
The pictures were scary enough. Note the loo and the outside shower, we were obviously in for excitement of some kind. At least the sun would be shining. With thoughts of being eaten by lions we set off!
After the long flight to Jo'Burg and a restful sleep we were ready for the van. Den and Harry went to fetch it and we were soon packing our new found friend, a Ford Ranger, Den named him Elvis....who knows why? Harry was also making friends with his new super duper bakkie, complete with ceramic flushing loo, numerous fridges and freezers and a large comfy roof tent. Ours was a more modest affair but perfectly formed with freshly laundered bed linen, towels and everything we would need for an extended trip in the wilderness. I was pleased to note that we could get up in the roof tent without going outside, could be a handy feature with animals about. We were pleased Harry and Fiona were going with us, we are not brave enough to go solo. Strangely enough we did meet other loan European travellers on the road though much younger and braver or more fool hardy than us!
To be fair to Avis the van looked the part and packing it was a straight forward job.
Harry is an experienced over lander and had planned a route through Botswana booking all the sites. You would expect this to be relatively easy but Botswana is very hot on animal conservation and seriously restricts the number of tourists allowed onto camp sites and in conservation areas. Harry had spent the best part of a few months just booking sites. We also had to make sure that all the documentation was correct for going through the Botswana border crossings. Newbies take note, a first trip to Botswana would be best done through a travel company, there are lots of options. Also in some areas you have to be travelling with another vehicle to be allowed in. A brilliant book which really tells you about everything you need to know about Botswana is The Shell Tourist Guide to Botswana. Don't leave home without it, you will also need Tracks for Africa. with a hand held Garmin. We were lucky as Harry was very well prepared and Fiona had the medical kit, she was a trained nurse.
We also had available a satellite phone for emergencies, no use trying to find a wi-fi connection in the Kalahari, McDonalds were not exactly on every corner.. Insurance comes with the Avis package, we used our bank insurance for medical cover ( check safaris are covered ) Also be aware that Botswana is in a red malaria zone so suitable precautions are needed. We decided on the Malarone, expensive but effective although you do need to spray your clothes and cover up at dawn and dusk. We did not find the mozzies a problem but it was extremely dry. To be totally self sufficient you also have to take all your water, fuel and food. We found no water in the Kalahari but were fine with the 100L of water we carried, Harry carried 200L, at least we wouldn't die of thirst, although hair washing had to take a back seat. The currency for Botswana is Pula, not available in the UK. Once were suitably packed we were ready for the off.
On the move we headed for our first destination the Red Sands Lodge still in South Africa on the border of the Kalahari at Kuruman. Our first day took us through some interesting scenery for around 600 k. Lots to see on the way including ostrich and the fascinating farms in the transveld. Harry showed us the farms he grew up on. We were still amazed by the numbers of people walking along the busy roads. The contrast between poverty and affluence.
From shanty towns to government housing.
In Africa everyone is walking.
Our trip to Kuruman was rather eventful as we had to stop enroute to get our batteries fixed as we had some loose wires.Gosh, that town is like the last frontier, Also our freezer wasn't working, so we were not best pleased with Avis, if we had been on our own we would have had to have got it fixed as life in the desert without a fridge and freezer would have been impossible. A little battle to be taken up later! We paid for the wiring to be fixed but decided to live without the freezer. The fridge worked enough to keep drinks coolish. The temperature was creeping up to 40 C, so anything below 10 C was a bonus.
We arrived at the Red Sands Lodge at around 4.00 pm A lovely place to stay which lives up to it's name, everything was red. We had a lovely room and a great meal in the restaurant.
The lodge also had a camp site. The next morning we set off for the long sandy drive to the Botswana border and on to Mabuasehube Pan in the Kgalagdi Transfrontier National Park and our first taste of "proper wilding".
The next days driving proved somewhat challenging. Yes this was a proper road! We made the border crossing into Botswana at McCarthys Rest. Not too stressful at the border but they did ask Den for his driving license, though they didn't look at it! 300 Pula for insurance and a quick search for illegal meat supplies by the border police and we were through. The tomatoes we had brought with us were not strictly allowed but they let us through and reminded us to bury the tomato seeds when we had finished with them. It's amazing how strictly the border is patrolled with constant veterinary checks, tyre and shoe disinfectant dips and monitoring of vehicles.
Eventually we arrived at our first real camp site, it turned out to be a true wilderness spot, no water and no loo. Lots of cute little meerkats though, african honeybees and birds in abundance....no lions, though we did find some evidence they may have been around. The Kalahari is truly a stunning place incredibly silent at night and the stars are amazing. We slept in peace.
A day time visitor.
Morning has broken.
The Kalahari is probably one of the last few real wilderness places and a beautiful place, but so dry. The rains were late and when we left, everyone in Africa was waiting for water. The pans were bone dry.
The lack of rain meant a lack of animal life. We decided to move on after two silent nights. We were lucky however that the meerkats kept us company.
We said goodbye to this beautiful place, we had enjoyed it's beauty, serenity and even a shower in the great outdoors. The only camp site visitor we had was a huge hyena that came one night, sadly Den and I slept through the nocturnal visit. Harry and Fiona said it was the biggest hyena they had ever seen!
Time to review the first 6 months with April. Since putting a deposit down on our IH van with Nick Whale Motor homes at the Malvern Show last year and patiently waiting the arrival of our new motor home in April 2015, we have been on a bit of a roller coaster.
Positives.
We have been very pleased with April overall. She drives well, is comfortable and more than satisfies our living needs. We have had to think carefully about how and what we load into her, but that has been a positive experience overall and we've managed to get rid of a load of junk. April fits beautifully on our drive and the unobtrusive colour means she happily blends into the background. We have found the slate grey colour perfect for us and so much easier to keep clean! So far, we have not noticed that we are too warm in the summer because of the colour and we did have some very hot days this year in France. White may be more, reflective but we can honestly say we haven't noticed any difference. The larger fuel tank means we can go a long way on a tank without worrying about filling up. We have found the water and gas more than adequate for our needs. If anything we were mildly embarrassed when we filled up the gas tank as it only cost £1.79.
Living: The bed is fabulous and really comfy. We have used a mattress enhancer from M &S and that works well for us. The duvet and mattress cover are in cotton duvet covers and roll up neatly in the back locker. I have been using a cotton throw on the seats just recently, but I think I will probably make something that fits better, even possibly getting the knitting needles out! I can see an Aran throw may work here. The big IH cushions live on the front seats during the night and are comfy by day.
The TV works brilliantly and is in the perfect place for a bit of night viewing. We usually only use the TV at home in the colder weather although it did work in France. It's really easy to use and tune in! The top cupboards provide massive storage. The heating is great and we have left it on very low all night when it's been cold.
Kitchen: The kitchen has loads more space than it would at first appear. The worktop extension is a valuable bit of extra room. The sink is adequate although I do leave a washing up bowl in the toilet compartment and we use site facilities when we can. The cooker works well although I have used the electric hob plate less than I thought I would and the oven slightly more. All my pans and crockery fall into the large kitchen drawers. We took out the heavy cutlery drawer and use a small light weight one. We have even used the little outside table, a handy spot for the wine bottle. I like the fridge, it's smaller than my last one but seems to hold more. We found a neat little pop up waste bin that also slots into the front door pocket.
Bathroom & Shower: The toilet and shower all functions as you would expect. With hind site we were glad our van arrived without an all round shower curtain, as the bathroom is a little cosy! We use site facilities where we can, although I do like to brush my teeth in the bathroom it works fine! We just need to remember to secure the bathroom cabinet door after use, as it was a mystery bump for a while! The toilet is great, I think I prefer the bench type it feels more secure.
Front Room: Grand title for two swivel front seats but they work well, although one had to have a handy file rubbed over its bits to get it to move more smoothly. The front door pockets provide handy storage for the electric leads and we keep the chocks in the front as a step for my little short legs which don't touch the floor. It also means we have a bit more room in the boot. Our shoes and boots fit in the floor locker, just as well we both have little feet! The side cupboards behind the drivers seat are the glory holes storing keys and other bits and bobs. We also carry two wicker baskets for other "things" like wine and groceries. We put up a pole for our home constructed mozzy/fly screen but truthfully we have not needed to use it yet. The little blighters seem to fly in through the big door and out again through the roof lights or windows. Strange but flying things don't seem to hang around in April but time will tell!
Boot: Well everything has been in and out and chairs have been changed and new table has been bought. To cut a long saga short, everything fits in, just!! When we take bikes the Thule tow bar on the back works well. We have also tried out the gas BBQ and that is perfect!
Negatives.
We paid a lot of money for April and although most of our warranty issues have now been fixed, the question remains should the manufacturer and the dealer have been more diligent about what they were sending out.
In our quest to be truthful and with the words to any readers I may have, of "caveat emptor", buyer beware, ringing in our ears,there is rather a long list, of warranty issues. We could go into a whole chapter on whose fault it is, but readers can draw there own conclusions. Suffice it to say, that we do now have a near perfect van, although there are a few finer points left to clear up, when the habitation check is due. We live in hopes that nothing else can go wrong.
So here is the list:
Complications with the specification of the Fiat van and the options available. No one seemed to have the information we needed at the time. Eventually we found it ourselves.
Huge problems with the alarm. Nearly had to cut short our holiday in France.
Satellite receiver fixed with stick tape, which kept falling off.
All outside decals poorly fitted around the windows. They were replaced.
Black finish on outside grills flaking off. Replaced.
Fresh water tap too near to exhaust, melted. ( No this is not a joke) Replaced.
Front blind fixing held on with sticky tape. Replaced with screws.
Front locker not straight. Still to be fixed.
Carpet on rear side wall bubbled up when it was hot weather.
Rear and side lockers not straight. Obviously the fitters had been having a wonky 5 minutes. This was fixed.
Mirrors in bathroom stuck with tape. Now fixed with mirror screws.
Battery charger. Still not convinced it is right. Time will tell.
Protruding screws from kitchen splash back. Fixed.
Wiring and lights. Where do I start ? Finally fixed.
The pictures probably do not show the full glory of the wonky cupboards. The first time I noticed it, I thought it was the wine! The cupboards were at least 3 cms out from right to left.
This list may appear to be picky, but each fault had it's own story.
To be entirely fair to IH, all the work has been almost finished, hopefully quality control will improve. We had no problems getting the dealer and IH to fix issues I guess it was the inconvenience involved which proved the most frustrating. IH van are excellent products and we do not regret buying one, it is perfect for our needs.
Would we do it all again??
Um......... yes and no, but differently.
I think we would look for a new van that had already been built.
The further from home the dealer, the more complicated things are.
Things we may want to add later, possibly an inverter to help charge up phones and ipads when not on an EHU. Roll on our next trip!
As these season turns and it gets nippier, we thought we would try some days out. When we bought April we hoped she would also double nicely as a day van. Slightly longer than a normal car but at 6.3 meters we can just squeeze into a car space with a slight over hang. We have managed a number of supermarket car parks, so thought we would make use of our National Trust cards again for a day in the country.
Avebury, was the destination in Wiltshire. Not the most well known stone circle but certainly the largest, even bigger than Stonehenge. We had made a visit many years ago but I could only vaguely remember a few stones in the field and a slight sense of disappointment! As we set off the sun came out, with the promise of a beautiful Autumn day, we were not disappointed.
Arriving at the National Trust car park we settled April in. There was quite a lot of room but we had arrived early, so we managed to find a good spot on the edge of a grassy area. The Avebury stones cover a vast area and there are guided walks but we decided to go and see what else was on offer first. On site in the village are two museums and the restored Avebury Manor, reconstructed for the BBC programme "The Manor Reborn" in 2011.
A uniquely different National Trust property here, as they actually encourage you to open cupboards, sit on the furniture and explore the property. You can even lie on the beds!
A beautiful house built from mellow golden stone and home to at least 13 different families over the years. It's the kind of house you could actually live in, not vast but comfortable, initially built from 1557, it has been gently added to over the years.
We started in the gardens. Beautifully laid out in different styles. It would be easy to spend the day just wandering here.
It takes 4 weeks to cut the hedges! The flowers in the garden were spectacular and grown to provide cut flowers for the house. There was also an orchard, kitchen garden and greenhouse. All small but perfectly formed.
The manor itself has rooms done in different stages of the life of the house, from the 1920's back to Tudor times. Most of the stuff in the house is reproduction but done with great attention to detail by crafts people using the styles of the period. On our return I bought the book from the BBC series made when the restoration was done and it's a really good read. It would be great to make another visit.
We thought the Tudor room was beautifully done. The oak furniture was the real work of a craftsman. The pewter utensils were really heavy, I guess all that sword waving made for strong arms.
The rather grand dining room complete with hand painted Chinese wall paper. This was done out in an 18th Century style. The house was busy, but you could wander at will and poke about in corners and even try on the hats, very refreshing and not a bit stuffy! A great place to take children.
We nipped back to April for lunch and then went on a romp around the stones. Amazing stuff, to think how the early people managed to build this with antler horns for picks and no means of moving the massive stones. The site was built around the same time as the Egyptian pyramids. The pictures from the air are the best way to appreciate the scale. The stones themselves are not as inspiring as Stonehenge, we did not pick up any mystical vibes, or bump into any house ghosts but their are supposed to be some, maybe we were not tuned in. The Autumn colours were just beginning to break through.
A magnificent beech tree in the grounds. Bet these roots have a few tales to tell.
The goats seemed pretty laid back and not intimidated by the history around them.
Overall we thought the site much more commercialised than the last time we came, but certainly well worth a day out and we will be back.
Thought we would nip down and see what the Adventure Overland Show had to offer this year. Held at the Stratford - On - Avon Race Track this weekend. We only just got our April back, so we decided on the spur of the moment to go for the day and stay over night if we could.
Arriving at the show, we were a bit stunned that one night camping and entry to the show for two days would be £73.00 and that's without an electric hook up!! I guess for two full days and nights not so bad, but a bit pricey we thought. Never mind, lovely weather and as there was a Camping & Caravan Site at the gate, just by the show entrance we got a pitch with electric for £17 and decided one day at the show would be enough. The camp site reception also gave us two free tickets to the evening bash at the show. I know event holders need to make money, but £12 for a day ticket per person, a bit steep if you intend to go to the show for two days. I guess if we had booked with the Funsters Rally, we would have got a much better deal, still always next year.
We pitched up on a nicely mowed area on the edge of another motor home rally, popular spot obviously. There were two other rallies going on, one for motor homers and one for VW Campers. Facilities on site included, a good set of hot showers 50 p, a laundry washing up room and toilet emptying. It was around a mile and a half to Stratford and there was a bus stop near the entrance. We spotted a bike track in the distance but didn't have time to explore it. Just outside the gates was also an Indian take away/restaurant, so a very handy spot methinks. Perhaps another time we'll come and do the Shakespeare thing.
Here we are pitched up in the sunshine. We were so lucky this weekend with the weather.
Once we had settled in we headed the 100 yards to the show, paid our £24 and had a good look around.
Lots of clubs were there and is was obviously a very social occasion at night the camp fires burned brightly.
Loads of Landys abounded, with browns, beige and safari hats well in evidence. Even the Russians were there. Well, not quite but their vans were. Hopefully the listening gear was turned off, although on reflection they wouldn't have really heard that much of interest only the roar of the crowd when England lost to Wales at Rugby.
We investigated roof top tents and toilet facilities!
Can't wait to find out what's in store for us on our Boswana trip. Those tents seemed pretty high up to me.
We chatted with people about over landing in Peru and Iceland, both were very interesting and not as expensive as we thought they might be. Some of the tenting was quirky to say the least.
Bijou residence complete with log burner.
We spent quite a while looking around and Den splashed the cash on a pair of dodgy binoculars. Later that evening, we returned to the beer tent to sample the local produce. Real ale and Severn Cider, we even stayed a while and listened to the band, heavy metalish I think, but they were quite good for oldsters! The beer tent was well laid out complete with portable stage.
I think the loss of England at the Rugby slightly dulled proceedings, although as we left the pall of smoke curling around the show and the sounds of the middle aged at play, wafted through the air. We were soon tucked up in our cosy April, oblivious to the world.
Would we go again.....probably although costs could be significantly reduced by camping as part of a rally. It would also have been really interesting to listen to some of the seminars on offer. You never know we may need to know how to survive in the wild!
We heard the camp site is open until the end of October. A good place to stay if you want to explore Stratford on a budget. Nice and flat, friendly with good facilities, we would stay there again.
The title sounds like a 60's pop song. "On the Roof" but this blog is actually about our latest ramble around the roof at Dyrham Park a National Trust property. Dyrham Park for anyone who may be vaguely interested is a 17th century house near Bath. Built in 1692 it is done in a Dutch style. Rather dark and not really elegant, it's charm is really in it's story! Mr Blathwayt the original owner who built the house and laid the gardens was a perfectionist! He personally designed and had the house built in the valley transforming the original Tudor building into a baroque style mansion. He filled it with Dutch furniture and pottery. There is loads to see and we will go back when the roof is completed and the bits back in their proper places.
The actual house lies down in a valley and makes for a nice stroll mainly down hill on the way there! For the faint hearted or those with a disability or small children, there is a bus that runs from the car park and back. For walkers there is a good path or you can ramble through the park land.
The lift going up! You get a safety chat and a high viz jacket. Not for those who don't like heights. It's a long way up!
Miles of scaffolding. It did say somewhere how long it took to put up.
Currently the roof is undergoing a major conservation project to replace slates and stop the leaks, which threaten the fabric of the house. Visitors are transported up to the roof via a lift or stairs, we opted for the stairs! During the restoration the roof is completed covered and the house wrapped up.All the paintings and furniture is stored and visitors can amble around peeking and strange bundles. However, the National Trust in it's usual way, have made it into a visitor attraction. Huge amounts of scaffolding were used in this project and it was a very interesting way to see bits of the old house from a totally different angle. The chimney pots and ornaments on the roof are also under going a face lift. We even subscribed to writing our names on one of the roof slates to be preserved for future generations!
The pictures do not really do justice to the amount of work being done! Amazing to see how the roof was initially constructed and the vast amount of lead they used.
On the roof you get to look up close at the beautiful stone eagle made from Bath stone.
From below he looks tiny. We wondered how much work it took to get him up there in the first place? The Blathwayt eagle was finally placed on the roof in 1705. The other statue on the roof is Mercury. Not one of my best pictures but it was pretty low down.
Going up on the roof gave fabulous views of the grounds and countryside unlikely to be seen by us again.
We wandered down from the roof and then around the grounds, loads of deer were munching away oblivious to the crowds.
OK, the deer are camouflaged, but they are there hiding in the long grass.
A couple of young males, they do have antlers but I missed the best pictures.
Walking around the park is challenging as there are loads of very sleep hills.
If you need a work out Dyrham Park is certainly the place to go. We climbed a few hills and bumped into Neptune on our travels.
The views were beautiful being able to see right across to the Welsh hills. We were going for coffee but decided not to bother, as they were only doing paper cups and coffee always tastes foul in cardboard! Next time we go we'll take April our van and have a proper brew up in a proper cup!
Expecting April back any day now following her little visit for a few jobs to be done. Hopefully we will be able to get away for a bit of 4 wheel camping very soon.
