It had been around 20 years ago that we last travelled on the Portsmouth St Malo route. We decided to give it another go as we were travelling to Spain and using the Western route through Bordeaux.
We booked the ferry back at the beginning of the year as originally we had been going in April/May. Due to the purchase of our new family member "Pebble", we delayed the trip until August. Changing the original booking was relatively easy as we had booked a "flexi", a Commodore cabin on the way out and a 4 birth indoor cabin ( which was all we could get) on the way back. So both overnight sailings. I guess we had rather a rosy view of our last Portsmouth sailing many years ago and thought it would make a relaxing start to the holiday.
Our sailing from Portsmouth made for a much shorter journey from Somerset and as we were not sailing until 20.18hrs, we had all day to get there. This felt like a good idea when we booked it initially one cold wet January day. However, in reality, it meant we spent the whole day hanging around waiting until 15.00hrs to leave home. It felt a bit of a wasted day as we were really itching to get on the move.
The actual drive to Portsmouth was very simple and quick, we were soon lined up on the dock waiting for the off. No real in depth checks, passports stamped and we were pretty much at the front of the queue.
The new St Malo ship was huge. Boarding was straight forward and we were soon happily settled in our Commodore cabin. Nice big bed, mini fridge, TV and bathroom with a porthole. Good start. The lady who showed us to our cabin muttered something about the special lounge for our complementary breakfast, as it turned out we should have paid more attention 😔.
This was the positive start to the journey! ⛵⛵⛵
We were actually starving, so made our way to the restaurant Le Littoral on Deck 7. Seemed OK and not much of a queue. We got a table for two but the tables were very close together, so in reality we may as well have been on a table for four or even six. We got drinks and decided to go for the buffet with a main course 28.30 euros each, so not too bad price wise for food. That was before we got the bill at the end, when we discovered our mediocre bottle of plonk, which we thought was 17 euros was actually 27 euros, a bit steep we thought!
The buffet was acceptable though a pretty small selection, we noted they didn't top up the smoked salmon or prawns, so I guess we were lucky to be early. The main course was OK, a beef stew of some description. After the wine we just wanted to get moving and then get some sleep. The ship bobbed on the water but didn't actually go anywhere!! We left the port finally at 22.30hrs, apparently waiting for fuel. The total bill for the meal was 93 euros, not too bad but we felt the drinks were a rip off. Maybe we should have bought a meal deal package, still you live and learn. The service was pretty good though but we had got to the restaurant pretty smartly, when it was relatively empty.
What can I say about a peaceful night sleep...NOT! What with the engine noise and aircon blowing and doors banging it was anything but peaceful. To add to our enjoyment and relaxation the "peaceful" wakeup music went off at 5.30am as cabins had to be vacated by 6.15am. Never mind, a complementary breakfast coming up, we couldn't wait!!
Eventually we found the mysterious Commadore Lounge behind an unmarked door at the end of a corridor. We should have paid more attention when we boarded. Interestingly, the lounge was packed with people in the know all munching on their free fayre. There did not appear to be any checks on who was in there, which begs the question about "complementary" food and who qualified. The breakfast was very poor quality, mushy scrambled eggs, beans, mushrooms and bacon on a bain marie. Drinks in paper cups from a machine and dried up overbaked croissants and pastries, we didn't bother.
Disembarkation was simple, no checks and we were soon on on the way to Spain.
So much for a relaxing start to the holiday, we were shattered.
The return journey was much of the same. The parking in St Malo port is dire, so do not arrive early as parking is restricted. As our return ferry wasn't until 20.30, we drove out to Cancale along the coast and spent the day overlooking the sea, which was very pleasant.
Boarding for the trip home was easy, again no checks. We had been very good and were not carrying any contraband food.
We tried to get a cabin change onboard as we had altered our return trip and been allocated a disabled dog cabin, as the only one available. Interestingly it seemed OK with an enormous wet room. I was not too keen on the "doggy" aspect of the cabin though it seemed very clean. Den went for a quick shower which quickly turned into a deluge, as the whole cabin flooded. Literally water everywhere, we were sailing or rather sinking!! 😟😟 After a visit to Reception, we were quickly moved to a drier 4 birth cabin, what a relief. The ferry definitely wasn't full and there were other cabins available, C'est la vie. We spent a quiet uneventful night and even got an extra hours sleep with the move back to GB time.
Another meal in the restaurant, much as on the way over, except it was busier and the service poor. We avoided the wine, but had a small drink in the bar before bed time, wine was only 8 euros a glass ( another rip off), listening to the entertainment with the other cruisers. An early night was welcomed and we had the excitement of telly in our cabin.
Would we use this crossing again......NO. Far too stressful and hugely expensive. A drive to Folkestone or Dover perhaps, with a night stop on the way, may be on the cards for a future trip. Possibly consider one of the shorter ferry crossings if pushed.
Sorry to the lovers of Brittany Ferries. This is very much our personal view and no doubt many feel, it's the perfect start or end of a trip for them. Each to their own opinion but definitely not for us.
